Ama Dablam 2015 Expedition Dispatches

Dispatch #1 - October 18, 2015 - Kathmandu

This year we are running a couple of private Ama Dablam expeditions before we add this majestic Nepal peak to our 2016 expedition schedule. These climbs will be conducted in a fast and light manner as the climbers and Sherpas will be already acclimatized from ascents of other peaks in the Khumbu Valley.

The original plan for Ama Dablam for 2015 was an attempt of the North Ridge by Samuli Mansikka, Pasang Ongcho Sherpa and myself. The three of us have completed many technical climbs together in Peru and this was to be our personal Nepal climb for 2015. Unfortunately, Sammy lost his life while descending from the summit of Annapurna on March 24, 2015. We do not know exactly what happened that day on the descent from the summit but we have some ideas, and Annapurna claimed another pair of climbers way too soon in their lives.

With our plans for the North Ridge taking a dramatic twist with the absence of Sammy, Pasang and I will attempt to climb the normal South West Ridge route this November to honor the memory of this great climber, good friend and trusted rope mate.

Later on in the season, Pasang who is an UIAGM certified guide and myself, will return to Ama Dablam with some former Junkies climbers for hopefully another ascent of Ama Dablam.

Phil Crampton

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