Cholatse 2017 Expedition Dispatches

Dispatch #3 - November 8, 2017 - Kathmandu

Our team members are now all home or on their way to their respective countries.

We made our summit attempt on November 2nd with several of the team reaching the summit, and unfortunately a few whom turned around very close to the top, due to the late hour of the day.

Kami Sherpa and I fixed the last 150 meters to the summit the morning before our team members arrived at the summit. This allowed the other team who went the summit a few days later to reach the top safely, as well as the independent climbers, who showed up after we left and used the ropes we fixed.

A special mention has to go to Jose Ferro who still was able to reach the summit even though he had a broken crampon on summit day.

Phil Crampton

Dispatch #2 - November 1, 2017 - Base Camp

Apologies about the delayed second Cholatse dispatch. The team members and Sherpas have been very busy and today has been the first chance we have had to update everyone on our progress.

As planned the team members made their scheduled helicopter flight to Namche Bazar from Kathmandu on October 23rd. We are always pleased to take helicopters over the Lukla fixed wing flights and this was again a good decision, as the Lukla flights were delayed for several days before and after our Kathmandu departure date, leaving many climbers and trekkers stranded in both Kathmandu and Lukla.

We arrived at base camp on the 27th and the Sherpas got to the task of completing the fixed ropes. There were two small teams on Cholatse before we arrived at base camp and we are very grateful for all the work they did fixing ropes. Both the Junkies and the Jagged Globe team supplied rope and hardware to these previous teams and they did a great job, but unfortunately soft snow on the summit ridge left them unable to reach the summit.

One Sherpa each from the Junkies and Jagged continued the rope fixing from the previous high point on the 25th and got to 100 vertical meters of the summit before returning to base camp.

Today our Sherpas and team members made the climb to high camp once again where they will spend the night before leaving for the summit around 3am tomorrow morning. Kami Sherpa and myself will leave base camp at midnight and climb directly to the fixed rope highpoint where we will continue to fix the last 100 meters to make the route safe for all the team members and Sherpas following.

Phil Crampton

Dispatch #1 - October 21, 2017 - Namche Bazar

Our team memebrs have all now arrived in Kathmandu and will be taking private helicopters to Namche Bazar on Monday. After a couple of days in Namche the team will start the trek to base camp.

I arrived in Namche yesterday as we have some final logisitcs to sort out for the Cholatse and Ama Dablam expeditions as well as our new climb, Kyajo Ri which we will be offering in 2018.

As with last year, the monsoon was very late to leave Nepal and this caused some pretty dismal weather conditions in September as well as delaying many Lulka flights. Most early expeditions to the Khumbu ended up hiring helicopters to make the flight to Lukla. We have always used helicopters to avoid any delay at the start of our expeditions.

The trails are busy with trekkers heading to Everest base camp and climbers heading to the popular Island Peak and Ama Dablam. Hopefully now the monsoon has offically withdrew from Nepal we will start to get the favorable weather conditions the fall season is famous for.

Phil Crampton

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