Cordillera Blanca 2016 Expedition Dispatches

Dispatch #5: July 16, 2016 – Huaraz

We are now all back in Huaraz after another successful expedition in the Ishinca Valley. The team made ascents of Urus, Ishinca and Tocllaraju just as the first team did. We took a route variation on Tocllaraju near the summit to avoid the large crevasse that is guarding the summit on the normal route.

Some of the team head to Lima today, whilst others are staying to complete some more climbs and others are going surfing. Pasang Sherpa and I will stay for a few days cleaning gear for storage before we head to Kathmandu, Nepal to prep for our upcoming Dhaulagiri and Cholatse fall expeditions.

Phil Crampton

Dispatch #4: July 4, 2016 – Huaraz

The second team of climbers have now arrived in Huaraz and last night we enjoyed our group dinner at one of the fine local steakhouses.

The plan for today is for Pasang, James and myself to pack all the gear needed whilst the other team members take it easy and explore Huaraz. Tomorrow, some of the group may decide to go trekking or mountain biking whilst a few of us finish up with last minute gear needs. The plan is for us to make the trek to base camp on the 6th.

As always, we have a very international team with climbers from Finland, Nepal, Peru, Switzerland, United Kingdom and the United States.

Phil Crampton

Dispatch #3: July 2, 2016 – Huaraz

Our first team members are now on their way to Lima after a successful time spent in the Ishinca Valley of the Cordillera Blanca.

The team made ascents of Urus Este, Ishinca and Tocllaraju although we had to be content with not making the final 10 vertical meters on Tocllaraju due to a 3-meter wide crevasse guarding the summit. The first two peaks saw amazing weather but on the final peak, we had to deal with very strong winds from the start until descending to the glacier's edge.

Conditions in the Cordillera Blanca are very dry this year and a lot more of the climbs involve rock and ice compared to previous seasons. The locals are saying there are fewer tourists this year but that does not affect the amazing climbing to be had here.

Our second group is arriving in Lima today and will take a private bus to Huaraz tomorrow to start the acclimatization process.

Phil Crampton

Dispatch #2: June 21, 2016 – Huaraz

We are now spending our second full day here in Huaraz. The team have been exploring the town and local fine restaurants whilst Pasang Ongcho Sherpa and myself have been busy in our storeroom packing all the gear needed for our three peaks we will be attempting in the Ishinca Valley.

Our team members are all in good spirits and looking forward to getting to base camp tomorrow. Several of the team are Himalayan veterans with expeditions to Everest, Manaslu and Island Peak whilst others have many summits of Denali, Aconcagua and Rainier on their climbing resumes.

The first peak we will climb in a few days will be Urus Este, followed by Ishinca and then Tocllaraju. We are talking with many climbers heading back to Huaraz from the hills and they are reporting that it is a very dry season and some of the more popular technical peaks do not have as much snow as usual making for some challenging climbing.

We will report back in several days with the conditions of the peaks we chose to climb.

Phil Crampton

Dispatch #1: June 18, 2016 – Lima

Our first Cordillera Blanca team of the season are now all in Lima with all of their luggage. Tomorrow we will take a private bus for the seven hour ride to Huaraz to start the acclimatization process.

Phil Crampton

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