Mera Peak, Nepal

Altitude Junkies offer one of the most cost-effective full-service expeditions on Mera Peak in the Makalu-Barun region of the Nepalese Himalaya.

We don't advertise an expedition price and then ask for additional payments at the conclusion of the expedition such as Sherpa summit bonus and kitchen staff gratuities as some of the other operators do. The price you pay the Junkies is the final price.

Our expedition is limited to nine climbers and one expedition leader with three Sherpa to assist the expedition.

The single leader/expedition manager offers similar expertise as a fully guided climb with a 4:1 climber to guide ratio.

Mera Peak is a perfect introductory peak to expedition style climbing in the Nepal Himalaya. With the expedition utilizing helicopters to travel to and from the mountain, we are now able to offer this expedition in a 12-day schedule.



Himalayan veteran expedition organizer Phil Crampton who has reached the summit of Mera Peak several times and has multiple summits on 7,000 and 8,000-meter peaks in Nepal, Pakistan and Tibet will lead the 2020 expedition and this will be his eightieth plus Himalayan expedition.

In addition to an experienced leader, the teams head climbing Sherpa Sirdar will be Pasang Ongcho Sherpa who holds the coveted UIAGM guide certification. Pasang has vast experience being a Sirdar on Everest, Lhotse Makalu, Manaslu and Cholatse and will be directing our climbing Sherpas who have all summitted 8,000-meter peaks before, some multiple times, and their knowledge of the mountains of Nepal is unrivaled.



We utilize helicopters from Kathmandu flying directly to Khote. The Lukla fixed-wing flights are very weather dependent and we believe helicopters are a safer option. Khote is a good elevation to start the trek to base camp from. At the conclusion of the expedition we will take helicopter flights directly from base camp back to Kathmandu.


The Trek to Base Camp

After arriving at Khote by helicopter we will start the three day trek to base camp. Each evening we will stay in the best teahouse lodges on route and our kitchen staff will supervise all food preparation in the lodge kitchens. We will take cautious acclimatization rest days at Khote, Thagnag and Khare.


Base Camp

We will utilize the nicest teahouse lodge at Khare as our base camp. This means we will not have to camp until high camp on Mera Peak.


The Kitchen

The head and assistant cooks have all been trained by western chefs in food preparation and strict hygiene standards and produce a varied and nutritious western menu throughout the expedition. They prepare three delicious hot meals a day and use local fresh produce and meats and these are complimented by a huge selection of imported foods and snacks.


Climb Strategy

Mera Peak is a pretty straightforward climb and we will climb roped up with each other and the steep section before the summit may have fixed ropes placed if we feel the need to.

The climb to high camp follows easy angled snow slopes, weaving our way through crevasses. From high camp we climb the glacier on snowfields before reaching the final steepening summit ridge of Mera Central for around 50 meters. This section is climbed using an ascender.



We provide medical oxygen, portable altitude chambers and comprehensive medical chests at base camp. We also ask that all climbers carry individual micro high altitude medical kits at all times above base camp as the Sherpas and leader does. All climbing members and climbing Sherpas wear a personal avalanche beacon above base camp.



For constant communication we have all climbing members, climbing Sherpas and guides have their own personal two-way radio at all times on the mountain. We also have base station radios base camp and have these active at all times when members and Sherpas are on the mountain.

Our satellite phones are available for our team members to use at base camp at actual cost price as we feel charging an outrageous amount to phone family is unfair during such an expedition.


Weather Forecasts

To ensure the safety of all our climbers we subscribe to a professional weather forecast service for the duration of the season and have access to this information at all the respective base and high camp and receive constant updates during our summit push.

Altitude Junkies does not allow any solo climbing above base camp on any of our expeditions.

Photo credits: Pasag Ongchu Sherpa - Mera Peak.

The expedition cost includes:
· Single accommodation with breakfast in Kathmandu as itinerary
· All transportation in Nepal as itinerary
· Porters for 20kg personal gear to base camp and return
· All meals at base camp
· Group Nepal climbing Sherpas
· Group Nepal cooks at base camp
· Expedition permit, peak fee and conservation fees
· Liaison Officer expenses
· Garbage Deposit
· High camp tents
· Group climbing equipment, stoves and fuel
· Two-way radios
· Medical kits, portable altitude chamber and medical oxygen
· High altitude freeze-dried meals
· Climbing Sherpa summit bonus and carry bonus
· Kitchen Sherpa staff gratuities
· Kathmandu to Khote helicopter flight
· Khare to Kathmandu helicopter flight
· Satellite phone use at cost price
The expedition cost does not include:
· Airfare to and from Nepal
· Meals and drinks in Kathmandu
· Alcoholic beverages in Kathmandu
· Bottled beverages, showers and snack food on trek
· Nepal visa costs
· Evacuation costs, medical and rescue insurance
· Personal climbing clothing and equipment
· Personal Puja contribution

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